Part IV - Egypt: Mountain of the Dead & Cleopatra's pool (Siwa)

Day 3

Mountain of the Dead

Our first stop for the day was the Mountain of the Dead, a necropolis just outside Siwa. The first thing that caught my eye was the signboard outside which looked sinister. When we arrived, there were only a couple of other tourists in sight. To access the tombs, we had to call in a local caretaker to unlock them for us.

Mountain of the Dead

One of the tombs (Si - Amun)

Local caretaker who opened the tombs for us

The Mountain of the Dead, or Gabal al-Mawta, is a conical-shaped mountain containing approximately 3000 Pharaonic tombs carved into the rock, serving as the main cemetery for the Siwa Oasis during ancient times

The tombs date back to the Late Pharaonic and Greco-Roman periods, with the oldest graves traced to the 26th Dynasty (c. 664-525 BCE).The tombs, particularly the Si-Amun tomb, showcase a blend of Egyptian and Greek artistic styles, reflecting the cultural interactions of the time. Dedicated to various deities, including Anubis (the Jackal headed God of Necropolis), Thoth (the Ibis headed God of Wisdom & Magic) and the crocodile god Sobek, the site offers insights into ancient Egyptian religious practices.

Tomb cavity

Anubis , the Jackal headed God , mummifying the dead

Depiction of the Nile crocodile in the wall paintings

Thoth, the Ibis headed God of Wisdom & Magic

The Mountain of the Dead was rediscovered during World War II when local Siwans sought shelter from bombing raids. This accidental discovery led to the unearthing of numerous artifacts and sarcophagi, making it a crucial site for understanding the history and culture of ancient Siwa and its connections to the wider ancient world.

Series of burial holes spread across the mountain

The Shali Fortress

Constructed in the 13th century using a material called kerchief—a mix of salt and mud—the fortress was built to protect the Siwan people from invaders. Despite being partially eroded over centuries by rain, its ingenious design still stays put until today.

One of the most remarkable features of Shali is its maze-like network of narrow alleyways and passageways. These labyrinths were intentionally designed to confuse invaders, making it nearly impossible for them to navigate the fortress without local knowledge. To further intimidate enemies, the Siwans constructed additional structures like fake walls, entrances, and platforms, creating an illusion of a larger, more heavily populated fortress.

The Shali Fortress

Ancient roofless houses

Me lost in the confusing maze

I did some quick shopping at the base of the fortress and later spent a while just observing the Siwan life happening in front of me.

Main road in Siwa

Local food stall

While heading to our next spot, I was glad to see many village kids going to school. It was encouraging to see education being given importance in such remote areas. I was however astonished to see kids driving tuk tuks carefree on the road and sometimes carrying other kids as passangers.

A kid driving other kids to school

A farmer & his donkey

Towers used for raising pigeons

Cleopatra’s Pool

Cleopatra’s Pool, also known as the Spring of Juba is a natural freshwater pool in Siwa Oasis, famous for its connection to Queen Cleopatra, who is rumored to have bathed here during her visit. This circular stone pool is fed by an underground spring.

I was more intrigued by the massive eagles and falcons being controlled by their tamers nearby. These individuals, often skilled handlers, demonstrate a unique bond with their trained eagles, a practice passed down through generations. I took the opportunity to have an eagle perched on my hands but he was so heavy that I couldn’t hold him for more than 2 minutes. I had no clue how the handlers carried them bare-handed for much longer times. Their claws were so massive and could easily cause serious damage. It is a special human-animal bond that deserved respect.

Later, We had a good lunch nearby the pool and relaxed there for the rest of the afternoon.

For dinner, I asked Walid to take me to Abdo restaurant. It was a small eatery , very popular in Siwa , serving local street food. My favorite was the Pasta cooked in the local ‘’ Garia ‘’ style which meant ‘’ literally melts in your mouth ‘’in the local slang. Post dinner, we roamed the streets of Siwa for a while before heading back to the hotel.

Cleopatra's Pool

Me holding a falcon

Lunch with my guide and the drivers

Abdu Restaurant

Local ''Garia" style pasta