Part III- Svalbard, The Arctic: Steering a Husky Sled, Spending Time with Arctic Hunting Dogs and the Inspiring Tale of Foxi

Tommy, the musher, picked me up around 9 AM from my guest house in his red camper van. A “musher” is a person who drives and manages a team of sled dogs, typically guiding a dogsled across snowy terrain. The first thing I noticed when I got into the van was the heavy, distinct smell of dogs.

As luck would have it, I was the only person on the roster, so I would have the entire experience all to myself. This was something I hadn’t expected, but I was quite glad about it. We drove for about fifteen minutes to reach his home, which was on the far edge of town, and the dog yard was just behind it.

Tommy is a very experienced dog handler and has won many dog sled competitions. Apparently, other handlers are quite jealous of him, since he wins almost every race. His secret is the unique relationship he has with his dogs. These creatures are a part of his soul, and together they share a deep bond. This was something I could clearly feel. Tommy and his family maintain a kennel of about forty-five dogs, raising and caring for them carefully to prepare them for demanding sled races and tourist expeditions.

After we arrived at his place, he invited me inside his house, and we sat down to talk on the sofa. That’s when he told me about a very special canine he once had, Foxi. Foxi was a remarkable sled dog and the leader of Tommy’s team. Despite being smaller and initially considered too weak to be a sled dog, Foxi rose to prominence through her determination and resilience.

Tommy's house with a spectacular view

Foxi has an impressive resume, having led sled teams not only in Svalbard but also in the world’s toughest races, including the Iditarod in Alaska, where she surprisingly led a team of 16 strong huskies after the main lead dogs were incapable just before the race start. Her ability to figure out routes in unfamiliar conditions and memory of recalling was exceptional. She has also run the world’s longest sled dog race in Alaska, Europe’s longest in mainland Norway, and even journeyed to the North Pole. Her leadership qualities and experience make her a standout. She also led the Norwegian Crown Prince and Crown Princess on a dog sledding trip in Svalbard in 2022, highlighting her status as a celebrity sled dog.

Sled dogs like Foxi excel at remembering trails and making smart decisions independently, sometimes outsmarting even highly obedient breeds. When given a lead position in major races, Foxi was required to not only respond to the musher’s commands, but also make fast decisions about obstacles, weather, and overall team spirit, coordinating the entire dog team effectively and ensuring the safety of all.

Foxi’s story clearly shows that leadership doesn’t always require an “alpha-male” approach or stocky physical attributes. I could sense that Foxi held a special place in Tommy’s heart, and it was clear he missed her. It was moving to witness such a strong bond between man and animal. There is also a book about her called "Foxy’s Tale: The True Story of a Champion Alaskan Sled Dog" by Edward R. White, which provides more detailed insights into her life and achievements.

Later, we got into our gear, and Tommy explained the plan for the day and went over the safety instructions. One thing about Tommy: you’d better listen when he spoke, because if you didn’t, he would make sure you did. After all, being authoritative is a prerequisite for an award-winning musher.

We then entered the dog yard. The dogs knew that not all of them would get to go on this ride, but each and every one of them wanted nothing more than to be outdoors. They were born to work hard and to do intense physical jobs, and this is in their blood. It is the very purpose of their lives, and they take it very seriously. As the selection began, they started barking, probably trying to get Tommy’s attention. When Tommy picked out a few select dogs, the rest barked even louder out of jealousy. The ones left behind could not stand the thought of someone else being chosen over them.

The dogs trying to get Tommy's attention to go on the ride

More intense barkings of jealousy prior to departure

I went around and started patting some of the dogs to calm them down. However, the barking would start again as soon as I moved on to the next dog. Amidst the pack, I noticed a couple of dogs that seemed like the odd ones out. They were much bigger and more intimidating than the others. When I asked Tommy, he explained that these two were Polar bear hunting dogs. They are a specialized and elite unit, bred specifically for that purpose. I spent quite a while alone with them before Tommy told me it was time to go.

The big husky specialised in polar bear capture

Finally, ten dogs were chosen, and it was an interesting mix. One particular dog, who was apparently antisocial and considered the "troublemaker," was included in the team to help him develop social bonds and learn pack mentality. Since I was Tommy’s only client that day, he decided to experiment with the pack combination. Another interesting pair was a mother and son duo, who were put next to each other.

As soon as Tommy released the brakes, I immediately felt the power of these creatures as they pulled us forward. I was not sure how they could generate such force despite being much smaller than Siberian huskies. Although they share some similarities, they are not exactly the same breed. Arctic or Alaskan huskies, which are Tommy’s dogs, are often smaller and lighter than their Siberian counterparts. Siberian huskies tend to have a heavier build, while Alaskan huskies are bred for speed and endurance, resulting in a leaner physique.

Tommy told me that these dogs can handle great distances, but it is speed that wears them out. Some inexperienced handlers focus more on speed, which can damage the dogs’ musculoskeletal system and make them more prone to injuries or early retirement.

We made several stops along the route to give the dogs water in a small bowl. We started at the front of the pack and worked our way to the back, making sure each dog had enough water. This was important to prevent overheating and fatigue.

Later, Tommy asked if I wanted to take the controls and drive the pack. How could I say no? I gladly accepted. He gave me two important instructions: never let go of the brakes until he said so, and always stay on the side of the trail. It was a fantastic experience. From time to time, I noticed the lead dog turning back to look at Tommy, as if communicating with him on a level I could not understand.

Being pulled by these amazing creatures through the Arctic landscape was something truly special. It was a privilege and an honor to share a day of my life with Tommy and his extraordinary canines.