Part II – The Jungles of Western Ghats, South India : Wild Encounters with Big Tuskers and a Herd of Angry Females

The Indian elephant is the second largest land animal on the planet, after its African counterpart. Males typically weigh between 4,000 to 6,000 kg on average and can stand up to about 3 - 3.5 meters tall. The Western Ghats is home to massive tuskers (adult males with large tusks). Tusker elephants here are known for their strength and territorial behavior, often roaming within the dense, hilly terrain. However, habitat fragmentation due to agricultural expansion and human settlements poses serious challenges, leading to increased human-elephant conflicts. Personally, I’ve been fascinated by tuskers for as long as I can remember. Every time I catch a glimpse of them in the wild, their intimidating aura and sheer size turn the moment into an unforgettable spectacle, one that stays with you long after you’ve left the forest.

While they are known to be gentle giants for the most part, tuskers can become extremely dangerous to encounter in the wild, especially when threatened or during ''musth'', and are responsible for hundreds of human deaths annually in India. ''Musth'' is a periodic condition in adult male elephants, marked by a significant increase in testosterone, up to ten times normal levels, that triggers behavioral changes. During this period, a bull elephant’s temporal glands between the eye and ear swell and secrete a thick, strong-smelling fluid, which runs down the face and is used for scent marking. There is also continuous urinary discharge. Musth bulls can become extremely aggressive, unpredictable, and dominant, often seeking out females and challenging other males for mating rights. This aggression has also been responsible for attacks on humans. The combination of immense physical power and hormonal agitation makes them a formidable force to be reckoned with. For example, there are documented cases of bulls breaking through wall barriers, attacking trucks, and causing human fatalities. There is no fixed period for musth ; the timing can vary between individuals. It can last from several days to several months, making this a highly risky time to encounter a tusker in the wild.

That’s exactly why having a local guide by your side is absolutely essential when venturing deep into these forests. Many of these guides, who often act also as drivers, are descendants of the tribal communities that have called these jungles home for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Their knowledge of the forest is truly remarkable. They can read the signs of the wild and interpret animal behaviour in ways most of us could never imagine.

Seeing a tusker elephant in the wild especially in the Western Ghats is significantly rarer than spotting a female or a herd. Recent population studies in Kerala show that among adult elephants, only about 15% are males, out of which, just a small fraction are tuskers. In contrast, female-led herds are much more commonly encountered during forest excursions. This combined with the solitary behavior of tuskers, means that glimpsing one in the wild is a special event.

Surprisingly, during this trip, we had several close encounters with tuskers. Most of these occurred while we were traversing the core area of the forest in our vehicle. Fortunately, I don’t think any of these tuskers were in musth; otherwise, we might have triggered an attack or witnessed some form of aggression. Rather, they appeared quite calm, and their temperament seemed to be under control. Interestingly, it was a female herd that was more aggressive towards us this time. It almost felt like a role reversal.

I have highlighted some of the key encounters below:

Our first elephant sighting of the trip

We saw our first elephant in the early morning hours. Our guide spotted it with precision, as it was very well hidden beneath the thick forest. It was not a tusker but probably a female or a juvenile. Sometimes, it is hard to believe how these big creatures traverse such dense foliage.

The first elephant we spotted during this trip (1)

The first elephant we spotted during this trip (2)

A Close Encounter with our first Tusker

The next encounter was, without a doubt, crazy. We were winding our way along a ghat road close to the forest's edge. Suddenly, as we navigated a bend, we came to a jolting halt. There, looming just a few meters ahead, stood a big tusker.

My heart skipped a beat. For a split second, I questioned my driver’s sanity. Was he crazy or just drunk? He parked our jeep right in front of the behemoth, as if this was the most ordinary thing in the world. I clutched the seat, half-expecting the elephant to charge at any moment.

Yet, my driver seemed completely unfazed. With a calmness that baffled me, he said, “Don’t worry. He won’t charge.” I wondered how on earth he could be so sure. To this day, I still don’t know how he came to that conclusion.

For what felt like an eternity, we sat in silent awe, watching the tusker. The air was thick with tension and excitement. Eventually, the giant gave us a slow, almost regal nod before disappearing back into the forest, leaving us almost breathless.

The tusker we saw from our jeep

My driver parking our jeep right in front of the tusker

My driver parking our jeep right in front of the tusker

The rather calm tusker munching on the nutrient rich foliage

The tusker elephant heading back into the jungle

Second encounter with another colossal tusker

A couple of days later, again as we wound our way along the narrow jungle roads, out of the dense undergrowth, another colossal tusker emerged. He made our previous tusker sighting seem modest by comparison.

The massive elephant fixed his gaze on us with curiosity. With slow, deliberate steps, he began to approach—each footfall sending a subtle tremor through the ground. My heart pounded as he drew closer and closer, until he was just a few feet from our vehicle. I could almost touch him. He was maybe a bit too close for comfort.

Then, as silently as he had appeared, he turned back into the forest, leaving us awestruck and with a story we’d never forget.

The Tusker slowly approaching close to our vehicle

The tusker extremely close to our vehicle

The tusker retreating into the forest

The tusker standing on two legs to grab a fruit from a tree

A herd of angry female elephants

That afternoon, we stumbled upon a herd of female elephants with a tiny calf nestled safely among them. It was a scene straight out of a nature documentary.

They kept a watchful eye on us, their body language radiating fierce protectiveness. The entire herd seemed on edge, their agitation almost tangible in the air. We knew we were intruding their space, so we decided to move along quickly, not wanting to disturb them further.

The chorus of their trumpeting echoed through the forest, a sound that still lingers in my ears.

The herd of angry female elephants trumpeting

Youngsters engaging in a mock fight

Mother with calf

Biggest Tusker of the trip

Throughout our journey, we’d been lucky enough to spot several majestic tuskers, each one seemingly larger than the last. It felt as if the forest was gradually building up the suspense, revealing its giants one by one. We were about to exit the forest zone as it was our last day. Just when we thought we’d seen it all, the real showstopper made his entrance.

There he stood: the biggest tusker we had ever laid eyes on. Oh, those tusks!—were nothing short of magnificent. They were easily the longest and thickest we’d encountered during our entire trip. It was a fitting farewell from the forest

The Biggest Tusker we saw during the trip

The Biggest Tusker we saw during the trip