Part II - Sicily, Italy : Searching for the alleged Archimedes' tomb in Syracuse, Ear of Dionysius & Neapolis Archaelogical Park

5/11/20255 min read

The plan for the next morning was simple: head to Syracuse-provided I could feel my legs again after the Etna hike. With my flight back to Paris only scheduled for late evening, I had the entire day to myself.

Why Syracuse? Its rich history and its connection to the legendary scientist Archimedes had always fascinated me. Recently, I’d watched the latest Indiana Jones movie, where the climax unfolds in Syracuse, and Archimedes himself plays a pivotal role. This rekindled my desire to wander through this ancient, mystical town, tracing the footsteps of this legend.

Getting to Syracuse from Catania meant braving the public bus system-a challenge in itself. I arrived at the station just ten minutes before departure, my heart pounding at the thought of missing the bus and having to wait another hour, which would throw off all my plans. The ticket counter was deserted, and the people around seemed as lost as I was. Just as frustration began to set in, a lady officer strolled in, unhurried. I pleaded my case, got my ticket, and sprinted to the bus, boarding just as the doors were about to close.

The hour-long ride to Syracuse was a welcome chance to catch my breath. I headed for breakfast as soon as I got down the bus. I grabbed a pizzetta-the best version of pizza I’ve ever tasted. The tomato sauce, made from Sicilian tomatoes, was bursting with flavor, unlike anything I’d had before. I topped it off with a glass of blood orange juice, a local specialty that perfectly captured the essence of Sicily.

Pizetta and Blood orange juice that I had for breakfast

Walking through the streets of Ortigia

Walking through Ortigia’s narrow cobblestone streets is like stepping back in time. It was the hometown of Archimedes, the ancient genius mathematician and inventor. Born here around 287 BC, Archimedes made discoveries that are still part of school curriculums today: the Archimedes’ Screw for raising water, the principle of buoyancy (Archimedes’ Principle), and formulas for the area and volume of spheres and cylinders. Despite his fame, the exact location of his house in Ortigia remains a mystery.

One of the most legendary stories about Archimedes is his famous “Eureka!” moment. Tasked by King Hieron II to determine whether a crown was made of pure gold without damaging it, Archimedes discovered the solution while taking a bath. Realizing that the water level rose as he submerged himself, he understood how to measure the crown’s volume and thus its purity. Overcome with excitement, he reportedly leapt from his bath and ran naked through the streets of Syracuse, shouting “Eureka!”-Greek for “I have found it!”. As you wander through this town, you can almost feel Archimedes’ presence lingering in the air.

Narrow cobblestone streets of Ortigia

The symbol ''Pi'' inscribed on the wall of an old house

Searching for the Tomb of Archimedes: A Syracuse Mystery

One of the most intriguing experiences in Syracuse is searching for the tomb of Archimedes. As I wandered through the city, I found myself going back and forth, crossing busy streets and scanning for any sign of this legendary site. Eventually, I spotted a small signboard within a caged enclosure next to a main road-an unassuming marker for such a famous figure.

But the mystery only deepened. I soon discovered that the so-called "Tomb of Archimedes" inside the Neapolis Archaeological Park is not actually his final resting place. This monument is a Roman columbarium and its connection to him is based on local legend rather than solid historical or archaeological evidence.

Historical accounts suggest that Archimedes was buried near the Agrigentine Gate on the southwestern side of the city-a location that does not match the current site in Neapolis Park. Over the years, some scholars have even proposed alternative sites around Syracuse, such as the Grotticelle Necropolis or near the modern Hotel Panorama, but none have been definitively confirmed as the true burial place of the great mathematician.

So, while you can view the so-called "Tomb of Archimedes" from outside its fence, the true location of his grave remains one of Syracuse’s enduring mysteries.

The alleged ''Tomb of Archimedes''

The Ear of Dionysius

The Ear of Dionysius is nestled within the Neapolis Archaeological Park in Syracuse. This artificial limestone cave, standing about 23 meters high and stretching 65 meters deep, is instantly recognizable for its ear-like, S-shaped curve-a feature that gives it extraordinary acoustic properties, amplifying even the faintest sound up to sixteen times.

According to legend, Dionysius I, the tyrant of Syracuse in the 4th century BC, used this cave as a prison. Thanks to its unique acoustics, Dionysius could eavesdrop on his prisoners’ whispered conversations from a hidden chamber above, uncovering plots and secrets against his rule. Some stories even claim the cave was intentionally carved in this shape to amplify the screams of prisoners being tortured, making it a place of both surveillance and psychological torment.

Greek opera theatre

The Greek Theatre in Neapolis Park is a 5th-century BC open-air venue carved into a hillside. Once seating up to 16,000 people, it’s famous for its notable acoustics. Today, it still hosts classical plays, bringing ancient drama to life.

Neapolis Archaeological Park

Ear of Dionysius

Orange trees growing in abundance inside the park

The Greek Opera Theatre

Small watchtower situated inside the park

After an unforgettable time in Sicily, I caught the bus back to Catania and arrived at the airport just in time for my flight. The journey from Catania to Paris was smooth, and I landed right around 9 PM in Paris.