Part I - The Royal kingdom of Bhutan: A 6 day trip to '' The Land of the Thunder Dragon'' nestled in the Himalayas

Feb 2024 : Bhutan, a Himalayan kingdom, is known for its stunning landscapes, rich culture, and commitment to Gross National Happiness. With a strong Buddhist heritage, it features iconic monasteries, vibrant festivals, and unique traditions. It is also known as the ‘’Land of the thunder dragon''

I was visiting India after a long 2 years being in Europe. Just before booking my flights , I called my family and told them that I wasn’t going to spend all my holidays in Chennai (my hometown) . I was adamant that we go somewhere in the Himalayas. There was no particular reason but it is just that I strongly believe that these mountains possess a certain energy that I am not able to explain. So, there was always a longing inside me to explore these mountains further . I had been to the Himalayas a few times when I was young but that was really long back.

After a bit of drama , the war was finally over and I managed to convince them. We started to outline the overall plan and learnt that a guide was mandatory for foreign tourists. My uncle referred us a guide that he had known during his previous trip to Bhutan and we contacted him . After agreeing on the price and itinerary, we moved forward with the usual formalities. The plan was all set in motion and the flight tickets booked.

Day 1

We flew from Chennai to Baghdogra (direct flight) which was the nearest airport to reach Bhutan. After a bit of waiting, we met our driver at the exit gate who managed to spot us amidst all the chaos and a million people. We stuffed all our baggage in the SUV and commenced our drive towards Phuntsholing (which is located in Bhutan near the border) . My father was taking care of all the conversation and translation as the driver couldn’t speak English.

We stopped for a quick lunch at a local Dhaba before entering the main highway. I could literally feel the aura of rural West Bengal when we were passing by the small villages and the adjoining forests. The driver told us that leopards and elephants were active in these areas. A couple of wildlife reserves, namely Jaldapara and Buxa , were not far away but unfortunately we couldn’t pay a visit as our schedule was tight.

After a tiring 3 hour drive, we all needed a strong ‘’chai’’ very badly and so we made a halt at a small hamlet . There was this tiny shop adjacent to the highway and they served teas in ‘’matkas’’ (pots made out of clay and mud). The belief is that this was the authentic way to drink tea as the clay enhances the flavour. And after taking a sip, I became a strong believer of this theory as it was the best tea I’ve ever tasted in my life.

The rest of the drive was uneventful until my driver suddenly stopped the car at a bridge. The sun had set and it was getting dark but I could clearly see a river flowing beneath the bridge . Out of nowhere, my driver exclaimed ‘’ Elephant !” .. and we were all like ‘’ Where ? ‘’ . We exited the vehicle and proceeded towards the bridge. He kept pointing in a certain direction but we couldn’t see it no matter how much we tried . My parents spotted it after a while and I was still struggling to get a grip of it. Finally, I saw a dark patch far away slowly crossing the river and walking into the tall grasses . You really needed an unruffled focus to spot that thing as it was really far off for the naked eye especially in the dark.

We finally reached Phuntsholing at around 7h30 PM and bid goodbye to our driver who dropped us off a few hundred meters before the border office . We were later greeted by our guide , Mr. Thinley Dorji . Just by looking at him, you could feel that you were in good hands. He had a unique warmth and welcomingly guided us towards the border office for some paperwork. The border office was embedded in traditional Bhutanese paintings , scriptures and photographs of the King & Queen . It gave us a good idea of the country’s essence already. Everything went well with the documentation and we were finally in the Royal Kindgom of Bhutan.

Trust me, entering into Bhutan was like a total paradigm shift. It was like entering into an another world altogether . The landscape, the people , the language and the aura changed completely in comparison to the Indian countryside we left behind just an hour back.

Our guide left for the night after dropping us off at our 4-star hotel. We left all our luggage and then headed into the city centre with the hope of getting dinner somewhere as it was already half past 10 PM. The city centre was bustling with activity but many restaurants were starting to close at this time. After a bit of confusion and struggle, our hunger led us to a small restaurant who were happy (almost) to serve us food.

Day 2

We woke up early , finished all the morning routine and headed straight to breakfast. We had a long 5-6-hour drive to Thimphu ahead.

Sangye Migyur Ling Lhakhang

Our first stop was Sangye Migyur Ling Lhakhang (A temple dedicated to the Holy Saint Milarepa). Milarepa (c. 1052–1135) was a Tibetan yogi renowned for his transformation from a life of black magic and revenge to spiritual enlightenment. After committing grievous sins, he sought redemption under the guidance of the Buddhist master Marpa, enduring severe trials. Milarepa spent years in solitary meditation in mountain caves, achieving enlightenment and becoming a central figure in Tibetan Buddhism. He is famous for his spiritual songs and teachings on perseverance and inner transformation.

The temple is spiritually significant, with murals depicting Milarepa's life and teachings. It’s a peaceful, sacred space for pilgrims seeking blessings and meditation, offering a connection to Bhutan’s rich Buddhist heritage and Milarepa’s legacy.

We meditated for a while inside the temple and spent a while immersed in it’s gorgeous architecture and wall paintings. The rest of the day was spent in driving to Thimphu through the arduous mountain roads

Day 3

Thimphu – Bhutan’s capital

Buddha point

Buddha Point, or Kuensel Phodrang, is a popular landmark near Thimphu, Bhutan. It features a massive 170-feet bronze statue of Buddha Dordenma, symbolizing peace and prosperity. The statue houses over 100,000 smaller Buddha statues and overlooks the Thimphu valley, offering panoramic views. It's a major spiritual site and a tourist attraction.

Inside the temple , there was a massive crystal that was believed to be procured from Brazil (we were not allowed to to take photographs though) . I have never seen anything like that before but learnt from my father , who is well-versed in crystals , that this one was extremely powerful. He told me that he could sense it’s potent vibration. It was prohibited to take photographs inside this particular sanctum though. We took this opportunity however to meditate for a few minutes

Takin Reserve

Our next stop was the Takin Reserve Centre, near Thimphu, which is a wildlife sanctuary dedicated to Bhutan's national animal. Located in a serene forested area, it offers visitors a chance to observe this unique goat-antelope species, believed to have been created by a Buddhist saint

According to Bhutanese myth, the takin was created by the 15th-century Buddhist saint Drukpa Kunley, also known as the "Divine Madman." After being asked to perform a miracle, he ate a whole cow and goat, leaving only their bones. He then combined the goat's head with the cow's body, bringing the creature to life as the Takin. This whimsical tale explains the Takin's unique appearance

View point of Tashichoe Dzong

This is a beautiful fortress which houses most of the Government’s office and King’s Throne room. It is also the summer residence of Je Khenpo, the Chief Abbot.

Dochula Pass

Dochula Pass, located at 3,100 meters between Thimphu and Punakha in Bhutan, offers stunning panoramic views of the eastern Himalayas. The pass is famous for its 108 memorial chortens (stupas), known as the Druk Wangyal Chortens, built to honor Bhutanese soldiers. On clear days, visitors can see snow-capped peaks, including Gangkar Puensum, the world’s highest unclimbed mountain.

Visiting this place was extra special for me as it was the first time for my parents to see and feel snow with their hands . They transformed into kids again and couldn't resist playing around. A snow fight among us ensued with no major casualities.

Day 4

Gangteng Monastery

Gangteng Monastery, located in the Phobjikha Valley of Bhutan, is a significant Nyingma school monastery founded in the 17th century by Pema Lingpa. It serves as the spiritual home of the Pema Lingpa lineage and plays a key role in preserving Bhutanese Buddhist traditions. The monastery is known for its stunning architecture, scenic surroundings, and annual festival, the Black-Necked Crane Festival, which celebrates the migratory cranes that visit the valley

Spotting the rare Black-Necked Crane – Phobjika valley

Thinley and my parents weren’t too happy when I told them that I wanted to see these beautiful birds in the wild. The reason was that we were running short of time and it was a quite a hike through the valleys to access their feeding ground . Moreover, after all of this , there wasn’t any guarantee that the cranes would show up. But I don’t like to give up and was persistent . Then, leaving my parents behind, me and Thinley started to hike as we had to come back quick.

Certain parts of the descent trail were pretty steep and Thinley aced it big time . I was trying my best to match his speed but he was at another level altogether . No surprise! He was a hardened mountain guy and this terrain was his playground.

And then finally, we were greeted by the sight of these maginificent birds feeding happily in a farm next to a small village. It was such a delight to spot them in their habitat. They are migratory and are spotted almost only in the Phobhjika valley during winter.

Running race across the Phobjika valley

After seeing the cranes , we started to hike along another route. The plan was that our driver will wait for us on the other side of the valley. This route was comparatively more easier rather than climbing all the way back up the steep gradient .

Out of nowhere , this black dog showed up and just started to join the hike along with us. I was a bit surprised since he behaved as if he had known me for many years. Anyways, he was more than welcome . He started to take the lead once we entered the foresty patch. It felt as if he came to ensure our safety until we reached our destination.

After coming out of the forests, we were greeted by the valley of Phobjika. I was so consumed by the view that I sat down on a small hill and was just gazing it’s beauty with my mouth almost open in awe. The dog sat next to me and I put my hands over him. Those few minutes were a special moment for me

Then, knowing that we were already late , we started descending the valley rapidly. We were almost running. Then this somehow turned into a competition and we were now in a race. The dog totally destroyed us ofcourse but I managed to come second place. I must say that I had a head start before Thinley. But considering his supreme endurance and prowess, this head start was necessary to balance out the game. Atleast, that was my defense.

We finally reached the car and I had to bid goodbye to my new friend. I patted him and gave him a couple of biscuits.