Part I - Sicily, Italy : Hiking Mount Etna at night to witness lava activity (One of the most active volcanoes on Earth)

Monday mornings at the office are usually a blur of emails and coffee, but this one was different. My Sicilian colleague, Pasquale, dropped a bombshell in our WhatsApp group: Mount Etna was erupting, sending rivers of red-hot lava down its snowy slopes. Sure, Etna is famous for her frequent outbursts, but Pasquale insisted-this time she was “really” active.

Immediately, I dove into research, trying to figure out how long this fiery spectacle would last. Turns out, there’s no crystal ball when it comes to volcanoes. The experts said the lava could flow for weeks or vanish in just a couple of days. But the photos were mesmerizing-intense streams of glowing magma carving through pristine snow, a surreal clash of fire and ice. I crossed my fingers, hoping the show wouldn’t end before the weekend.

With thrill-seekers from around the globe flocking to Sicily to witness Etna’s dramatic display, I decided I had to join them. The clock was ticking-I had just three days to pull together a plan. Direct flights were out of my budget, so I settled for a layover in Milan. Next came the search for a guide. After chatting with several, one stood out-his genuine vibe sealed the deal. The others felt a bit too “commercial,” if you know what I mean. The plan was set: a whirlwind weekend in Sicily, with a return flight just in time to be back in office on Monday morning. Ambitious? Absolutely. Impossible? Not for Etna.

A quick aside about Pasquale: His family’s in Sicily, but his job keeps him in Paris most of the week. Every Monday evening, he jets to France, works in Paris Tuesday through Thursday, then flies back to Sicily early Friday morning to spend weekends at home. He’s kept up this routine for over two years, also squeezing in intense running sessions after work. Sometimes I wonder if he’s superhuman. Despite his packed schedule, Pasquale always has a smile on his face and an optimistic outlook towards life in general . Maybe it’s a Sicilian thing- to be laid back and fun-loving.

When I told him about my weekend plans to climb Etna, he was surprised-maybe even thought I was joking at first. Once he realized I was serious, he was thrilled for me, but also a bit disappointed: he’d be in Naples that weekend for a marathon. “Sai, you are going to Sicily the exact weekend when I will not be there!” he exclaimed. It was a shame-he’d been inviting me for ages. I joked that it was Etna’s fault for picking the timing.

And so began my adventure: chasing lava on Europe’s most active volcano.

Day 1: Landing in Catania

I arrived in Catania on a Friday night around 10:30 PM local time. As I stepped off the plane, the hotel caretaker was already waiting for me at the airport exit, which was a huge relief since I didn’t have a car to get around.

Despite the late hour, the city of Catania was still lively, though the traffic was surprisingly lighter than I had imagined. Once I reached the hotel, I quickly settled in and went straight to bed. I knew I had to wake up early the next morning. Little did I know, a big disappointment was waiting for me just around the corner.

Day 2: A Disappointing Start

Next morning, I hopped into a taxi bound for Via Provinciale, about a 20-minute ride from Catania’s city centre. I’d booked a scuba diving session for 8 AM, and I arrived far too early. With time to spare, I ducked into the first bakery I found for breakfast- one of the few places open at that early hour.

But just as I was finishing my pastry, my phone buzzed with a WhatsApp message from the diving agency: the trip was cancelled due to rough sea conditions. It was gut-wrenching news. Of course, I understood that nature always has the final say, but I couldn’t help feeling annoyed for a while before finally accepting the situation.

With my plans washed away and nothing else scheduled for the morning, I decided to simply wander. I strolled through the narrow local streets, soaking in the quiet charm of the early hours. Eventually, I found myself on a small bridge overlooking the sparkling Mediterranean. A few men were fishing, and flocks of seagulls swooped and called above the waves. Time slipped by unnoticed; before I knew it, four hours had passed. That’s the magic of being close to the sea -you lose track of everything except the moment.

The spot where I sat overlooking the Mediterranean Sea

The Hike to Mount Etna

I then took a taxi to Nicolosi, a quaint village nestled at the base of Mount Etna. By 3 PM, I met up with my hiking group for a quick briefing and essential safety instructions. Then, we loaded all our gear into an SUV and set off toward the trailhead.

The landscape along the way was striking-black volcanic rocks stretched as far as the eye could see, a testament to the mountain’s ancient and ongoing geological activity. As we ascended, patches of snow began to appear on the road, reminding me that winter temperatures here can plunge dramatically. Proper winter gear was a must: gloves, hiking poles, heavy jackets, and snow boots were essential. One surprising fact I learned was that vipers inhabit these forests. Apart from these snakes, the wildlife posed little threat. Foxes also roam the area, though sightings are rare.

Mount Etna offers two primary hiking routes: the northern side, known as Etna Nord, and the southern side, Etna Sud. The north is wilder and quieter, starting near the ski resort of Piano Provenzana, while the south is busier, with hikes beginning at Rifugio Sapienza. Whichever route you choose, hiring a knowledgeable guide is crucial. The terrain is rugged and unmarked, and the volcano’s activity can pose real risks, including toxic gases and sudden changes in weather.

The hike itself is a mix of volcanic ash, hardened lava flows, and snow-covered paths. The higher you climb, the more the landscape transforms into a surreal moonscape, with steam vents and craters bubbling nearby.

At around 4 PM, we set off. The initial part of the trail led us through pine forests. From this vantage point, we could catch glimpses of the summit. Although the lava activity had lessened compared to a few days earlier, there was still enough fiery movement to keep our spirits high. As we climbed higher, the terrain changed dramatically. Snow patches became more frequent, and the trail grew increasingly slippery. Every step required careful attention to avoid slipping on the icy ground.

Initial hike trail filled with black volcanic rocks

Dense Pine forests

Thick snow glistening in the afternoon sun

Heavy cloud cover

As night descended, the challenge multiplied and the trail became even more treacherous. Navigating the rugged terrain in the dark was nearly impossible without headlamps, so we kept our fingers crossed that our batteries wouldn’t die- since cold temperatures are notorious for draining them quickly.

After intense hours of hiking, we finally reached the base of the summit. The excitement was palpable as we edged closer, trying to get as near as safety would allow. Beyond a certain point, however, our guide firmly advised us to stop-venturing any closer simply wasn’t safe. Therefore, we had to settle for a view of the lava from afar.

Standing there, with the reddish glow illuminating the night, I felt a mix of exhaustion and awe.

Myself with Etna summit in the background

Volcanic gases coming out of vents in the rocks

Our hiking team and myself looking at the Etna

Our group posing at a flaming lava stone

Final phase of ascent at night

Red hot glow of the lava under the clear night sky

After spending some time gazing at this magical natural phenomenon, it was time to begin our descent. Little did we know, this would turn out to be the most challenging part of the entire trek. My legs had gone numb, and slipping became a frequent-and nerve-wracking-occurrence. The intense cold only added to the fatigue creeping in with every step.

Somehow, against all odds, we all made it safely back to the car around 11 PM. That sense of accomplishment after such a tough descent made every struggle worthwhile.