Part I - Morocco : Marakech & Ouazazarte

11/15/20247 min read

Oct 2024: I had always longed to visit Morocco. Its distinct landscape, especially the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara, along with its vibrant culture, was simply too enticing. It’s one of the few places in the world that has snow-capped mountains, beautiful desert landscapes, and exotic beaches—all not far from each other. The rich tradition of the nomadic Berbers, ancient Kasbahs, and welcoming locals make it a magical getaway.

Day 1

My flight from Paris to Marrakech started with an unexpected twist. The weather was unusually bad for this area. After circling over Marrakech for quite a while, the captain decided to head to Casablanca. We refueled there and headed back to Marrakech, hoping the weather would improve. Luckily, it did, and we landed around 13:00. The two-hour delay didn’t affect my plans much, though.

After passing through a long immigration queue, I took a taxi straight to the city center where my riad was located. A ''Riad" in Morocco is a traditional house or palace with an interior garden or courtyard, often transformed into a guesthouse or boutique hotel. First thing in my mind was to get a local sim card and that's when I realised cash is king here. Credit cards aren’t very helpful, no matter how much money you have. To add to the challenge, my card wasn’t working at any of the local ATMs. After trying four machines, I was about to give up when a local directed me toward a Société Générale ATM. It finally worked—probably because my card was associated with this French bank. I withdrew around 2000 dirhams, which would last me a few days.

Later, I had a local delicacy, "Tajine de légumes," for lunch at a small restaurant on the outskirts of the old marketplace.

My Riad

Narrow Alleyways of Marakech

Jamaa el Fnaa

I wasted no time and started exploring Jamaa el Fnaa. If you want to get lost in chaos, this is the perfect place for you. Jemaa el-Fnaa is the vibrant heart of Marrakech. A UNESCO World Heritage site, that has been a central gathering place for centuries, originally serving as a hub for traders, performers, and public announcements. Its history dates back to the 11th century. By night, it transforms into a bustling market where one can find textiles,spices, jewelry, and pottery. The square’s chaotic energy blends ancient traditions with modern hustle, creating a sensory experience of sights, sounds, and smells.

The snake charmers and monkey performers can get quite aggressive, though. Unless you want a snake around your neck or a monkey on your shoulder, it’s best to take photos from afar. The moment they see you taking a picture, they’ll start asking for money and sometimes even force you into the act.

Bustling Marketplace

Street performer taunting a tourist

Vipers on the street - belonging to the snake charmers

A Tuktuk with the chaotic townhall in the background

Saadian Tombs

After getting out of the hustle and bustle of Jamaa el Fnaa, I paid a visit to the nearby Saadian tombs. The Saadian Tombs in Marrakech are a historical burial site dating back to the 16th century, built during the reign of the Saadian dynasty. Hidden for centuries, they were rediscovered in 1917. The tombs feature intricate decoration and peaceful courtyards, showcasing beautiful Islamic architecture. This serene site is home to the graves of many ancient rulers and also their infants who died at a young age.

Saadian Tombs

An Old Kasbah at the city centre

A street painter

Day 2

I took the 9 AM bus from the CTM station in Marrakech towards Ouarzazate. The 5-hour ride takes you through winding roads in the Atlas Mountains, passing through small towns and villages. The route is simply breathtaking

A small remote village along the bus route

Kasbah Taourirt

Upon reaching Ouazazarte, I had to walk quite a distance from the bus station to my hotel but it helped my legs to regain blood flow after the long ride. After checking into my hotel, I headed to the Kasbah Taourirt. A kasbah is a traditional fortified structure or citadel found in North Africa, particularly in Morocco. Historically, kasbahs were used as defensive fortresses and as residences for local rulers or wealthy families. They typically feature thick walls made of mud brick, narrow alleyways, and a central courtyard. This one was built in the 19th century and was once the residence of the powerful Glaoui family.

Several guides were waiting at the entrance, eager to show me around for a small fee. I got the one who was more comfortable with English. My guide was an interesting character. He seemed to be a man of wisdom and was very passionate about his religion, Islam. In addition to explaining the nooks and crannies of the Kasbah, he was happy to have a conversation on deep topics such as, "If God created the universe, then who created God?" and the Five Pillars of Islam. We mutually agreed that there’s no clear answer to the first question, but he believed it was beyond human comprehension.

Kasbah Taourirt (Interiors)

Hidden secret rooms used to stash money & weapons in ancient times

Me drinking tea in the caretaker's room

After showing me around the kasbah, the guide led me into a small room where the monument's caretaker was waiting. As a kind gesture, both of them invited me to enjoy a cup of freshly brewed Moroccan tea. We sat together, chatting and joking about the caretaker’s multiple marriages and also Bollywood movies. Moroccans just loved Shah Rukh Khan and knew almost all the movies he acted in.

Kasbah Taourirt (Exterior)

The initial plan was to head back to the hotel after visiting the Kasbah. But just behind it, I noticed a small dirt road downhill that one could easily have missed. Feeling curious, I decided to take this path. After crossing a small shop and a cemetery, I came upon a tiny village. Before entering, I confirmed with a local that it was okay to visit, as I didn’t want to trespass. As soon as he saw me, a young lad approached me and started showing me around. We passed through narrow alleyways where kids were happily playing soccer and entered a few homes to access their terraces for a better view. Sometimes, you shouldn’t hesitate to take the offbeat paths. You never know what they might offer.

Narrow alleyways of the hamlet behind Kasbah Taourirt

An old lady seated outside her home

View from a private terrace

Ait Ben Haddou

A trip to Morocco without paying a visit to Ait Ben Haddou is incomplete . Ait Ben Haddou is a world famous Ksar located about 30 kms from Ouazazarte. A ksar is a traditional fortified village found in Morocco and other parts of North Africa. Typically made from adobe or mudbrick, these structures were built to provide protection against invasions and harsh desert conditions. Some of the most notable films shot at Aït Ben Haddou include: Gladiator, The Mummy Returns and Game of Thrones.

The climb to its summit is a journey through narrow alleys, weathered stairs, and vibrant shops. The streets are lined with stalls offering handwoven Berber rugs, their geometric patterns telling unique stories, and silver jewelry adorned with turquoise and amber. The air carries the scent of spices—saffron, cumin, and paprika. Shops also feature hand-painted ceramics, intricate leather goods, and striking decorative masks, inspired by African and Berber traditions.

Reaching the summit reveals a stunning panorama of the desert plains and the ancient settlement below