Part I - Egypt : Saqqara Pyramids , Exploring its tombs & Being alone in a chamber that my guide refused to stay

Nov 2024: Ever since childhood, I had dreamed of visiting Egypt. The land of pharaohs, pyramids, and ancient mysteries has always fascinated me. The stories of mummies, the grandeur of temples, and the allure of the Nile River was simply hard to resist. So, when I managed to secure a five-day leave, I didn’t think twice. I booked my tickets and began preparing for what I envisioned would be a dream trip.

I landed in Cairo at the ungodly hour of 3:30 AM, a bit fatigued after the long 5-hour flight from Paris. The airport left much to be desired. The infrastructure felt outdated, with confusing signage and a sense of chaos. Thankfully, my guide had arranged for a representative to assist me. This saved me from what could have been a frustratingly long immigration process. Instead of waiting in snaking queues, I breezed through customs in under five minutes.

We then drove to my hotel, which turned out to be a regrettable choice. The building looked like it hadn’t seen maintenance in decades, and the entrance was locked with chains. After waiting for what felt like an eternity, a groggy half-asleep janitor finally unlocked the door.

The room itself was an absolute shock. The questionable hygiene and an appalling bathroom felt far from hospitable. I pride myself on being adaptable, especially when traveling to remote areas, but the fact that I had shelled out $20 for this place in the capital city left me feeling cheated. It was a rough start, to say the least.

But, as they say, adventures often begin with unexpected twists. Despite the initial setbacks, my spirits remained high

Day 1

After a 4 hour nap, which seemed surprisingly sufficient, my guide Mohammad knocked on my door. It was time to go as we had an ambitious itinerary. With the car waiting outside, we set off on the day’s journey. The morning drive through Cairo was a sensory overload—dusty streets teeming with life and the occasional donkey cart sharing the road with modern cars. It’s a city where the past and present coexist in a vivid, timeless harmony

Our first destination was the Saqqara Step Pyramid, a masterpiece often overshadowed by its more famous counterparts in Giza. In fact, they are older than the Giza Pyramids. Mohammad, a passionate PhD candidate in Egyptology, filled the drive with insights. He explained how Saqqara was home to Egypt’s first pyramid, built during the 27th century BCE (almost 4500 years ago) under the reign of Pharaoh Djoser and designed by the ingenious architect Imhotep.

Unlike Giza, Saqqara is much less crowded, offering a more intimate connection. Mohammad wanted to ensure I appreciated its significance, so he shared stories of its construction and cultural impact. By the time we arrived, I felt prepared to truly grasp the site’s importance.

We also discussed the gruesome process of mummification that the ancient Egyptians perfected. It was a process that involved intricate steps to ensure the body’s preservation for the afterlife. First, the brain was removed using a hot iron rod inserted through the nose. The rod would melt the brain, which was then drained out. Next, all internal organs were carefully removed, cleaned, and placed in canopic jars filled with salt to preserve them. The body was then dried using natron (a natural salt), which absorbed moisture and prevented decay.

Saqqara has long been a site of fascination also for those intrigued by the supernatural. Over the years, several paranormal incidents have been claimed to have occurred within its vast necropolis. One of the most famous stories involves the mysterious deaths of several workers who were involved in excavation projects in the area. Some claim these workers were cursed after disturbing the tombs, particularly the tomb of the pharaohs, which were believed to be guarded by vengeful spirits.

In the 1990s, a well-known Egyptian archaeologist, who had been working in Saqqara for years, reported an unsettling experience within the Serapeum, the burial place of the sacred Apis bulls. He described hearing strange noises in the chambers late at night, as if the mummies were stirring, despite being completely alone in the tomb. Additionally, some visitors claim to have felt an intense, unexplained presence while exploring the tombs. Cold spots, sudden drops in temperature, and a sense of being watched are commonly reported. Though there is no scientific evidence to support these paranormal claims, the mysteries continue to fuel the imagination of both skeptics and believers.

The Serapeum

We began our exploration at a unique site : the Serapeum, the burial place of the Apis bulls. Each chamber housed massive stone sarcophagi, some weighing as much as 70 tons, built to honor and protect the mummified remains of these scared bulls. These animals were not mere livestock—they were considered earthly incarnations of the god Ptah and symbols of fertility and strength. Their burial was a grand event involving elaborate rituals. The atmosphere inside the tunnels was heavy especially the faint scent of damp stone mingled with the silence.

Underground alleyways at the Serapium

Ancient Hieroglyphics inscribed in animal tombs

Ancient symbolic inscriptions

The Tomb of Teti 

The tomb of Pharaoh Teti, the founder of Egypt’s Sixth Dynasty (circa 2345–2333 BCE), is a remarkable site within Saqqara. Teti was known for consolidating power during a period of political transition and fostering the tradition of pyramid building, though on a smaller scale compared to earlier dynasties.

Descending into the burial chamber, once can find the walls covered in the Pyramid Texts—some of the oldest known religious writings. These hieroglyphs, well preserved, were inscribed to guide Teti’s soul to the afterlife and ensure his eternal unity with the gods. The burial chamber itself housed the remnants of Teti’s sarcophagus, a somber reminder of the tomb's looting

Teti's Tomb

Well preserved hieroglyphics at the tomb

The Tomb of Mereruka

Mereruka was a high-ranking official during the Sixth Dynasty of Egypt, serving as the vizier to Pharaoh Teti. A “vizier” in ancient Egypt was a high-ranking official, often serving as the pharaoh's chief advisor and second in command. His tomb is one of the most significant non-royal tombs of the Old Kingdom containing 33 chambers in total.

The inscriptions offer a glimpse into both daily life and the societal structure of the time. It was absolutely surprising to see that the hieroglyphics still retained their natural colours despite the site being almost 5000 years Old. It was probably due to the dry, stable environment of Egypt’s desert. The arid climate prevents excessive moisture, which can cause the pigments to fade. Additionally, the tombs were sealed for centuries, protecting them from exposure to light, air, and other elements that would otherwise deteriorate the colors. The ancient Egyptians used natural pigments derived from minerals, such as ochre and lapis lazuli, which have proven to be incredibly durable

Mereruka Tomb (Interiors)

The door of afterlife

Wall paintings portraying ancient ritual of offering made to Kings & Gods

Wall paintings depicting animal sacrifice

The Tomb of Ti

I was determined to visit one particular tomb at Saqqara, even though my guide, Mohammad, warned me against it. “It freaks me out,” he admitted, his face showing uneasiness as we approached the entrance.. He hinted at a mysterious incident that had happened there in the past, but didn’t go into details. The message, however, was clear: this was a place that gave even the locals the chills.

But I was adamant. Something about the tomb’s reputation only fueled my curiosity. This was an experience I simply had to have for myself.

Accessing the tomb alone required special permission , and when we arrived, the site was strangely empty, despite heavy security. Armed guards with rifles stood at the ready, yet there was no one else around. After securing entry, we were allowed in, though I had to pay extra to the guides for their assistance.

Firstly, When I reached the burial shaft where Ti’s sarcophagus was once placed, I had to navigate through narrow, claustrophobic spaces to get access to it.

Depiction of Pharaoh Djoser overlooking from his afterlife in an enclosed chamber

Ongoing excavations in one of the tombs (closed to public)

The Step Pyramid of Saqqara

Access to the burial shaft

Me all alone in the tomb

The Tomb of Ti is renowned for its intricate reliefs, depicting scenes from Ti’s life, as well as the "afterlife door." This symbolic doorway was believed to guide Ti’s soul to eternity, ensuring his immortality. Interestingly, it was a fake door—constructed because the true nature of what lay beyond was unknown, representing the mysterious and unknowable realm of the afterlife.

Once inside, Mohammad left me alone for about 30 minutes. I could clearly feel that he wasn’t comfortable staying there for long. As I stood there all alone, I couldn’t shake the feeling of being watched. The energy in the room was palpable, though hard to explain. The experience was quite strange is all what I can say